On my 2016 del Norte Camino I stayed at the Ribadeo albergue which is the flat roofed building alongside the bridge connecting Asturias to Galacia.
There I heard about the fabled As Catedrais rock formations further along the coast. Luckily a signposted Camino deviation commenced right outside the albergue. (Now named the Ruta del Mar.) I had a late departure as I spent the morning filming and enjoying a local festival procession in central Ribadeo. I was determined to enjoy the walk along the coastline and stopped for a beer and
Image: Municipal albergue, Ribadeo
lemon to become immersed in the atmosphere and take in the view at a coastal inn. I made it to the beach late in the evening. The tide was out and I strolled through all the caves as the light faded. Now accommodation. Where was I to stay? A young boy out promenading with his grandfather pointed me in the direction of an inn. Unfortunately they were completo! Fortunately the bartender referred me to a client who just happened to have a cancellation and I was soon installed in my luxurious accommodation with balcony sea view.
Next morning my second viewing from down on the beach was thwarted by zealous ticket collectors who minutes before my arrival had taken up position. Entry was by ticket only. And they had all been allocated! Off I went to spend the day at a beach further up the coast. On the way a visit to a Tourist Information kiosk resulted in directions to rejoin the Camino. I was late leaving the beach. The Camino had headed inland and this was my last opportunity for a swim until Finisterre.
After stopping for wine and crisps and then walking into the twilight I realised I wouldn’t make the albergue before closing. A “Plan B” was called for. It was a full moon and so I decided to stay inside a bar until closing and walk through the night. This would be a wonderful opportunity to walk under the stars. I departed when the last glass had been washed. It was so cold I had put my next day’s clothes on too. The moon provided adequate light and all was going well until I missed one arrow.
I was lost! As I retraced my steps I set off all the barking dogs in Christendom. It was on my second circuit that I spotted the elusive arrow, and found the albergue. It was 4 am and I lay back on my pack which was propped against a convenient tree outside the albergue. At around 6 am out popped the first pilgrim. Before departing she gave me the position of her vacated bunk. I slept until around 9 am when the cleaner gave the metal bunk a resounding blow with her broom. Everyone else had departed. She thought I was a tardy pilgrim! I scurried outside with my belongings and sat on a bench in the sun. I noticed the kind cleaner had closed the self locking door on some newspaper. And I was soon asleep on ‘my’ bunk!
Note: ‘As Catedrais’ is a top Spanish attraction. There were lines of parked coaches on the day of my visit. The beach is limited to 5000 tickets (free) per day to be booked in advance, between the 1 July and 30 September and during Easter. Tickets can be booked on line. They are also available from accommodation providers but not the municipal albergue, and from the shuttle bus. Walking there does not qualify for a ticket! (As I found out.)
Image: One part of As Catedrais
Philip
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